Le Surfing

Biarritz, France

I am exhausted beyond exhaustion. Okay, maybe not that much, but quite a bit. (a note of frustration: the keyboards in France are messed up. The "a" key is switched with the "q"; "w" with "z", and the "m" is in a totally wrong place. Not to mention that to type a period, or any number, it requires that one push shift as well as the key. ARRGHH -- I dont know how much more I can write as this is starting to drive me mad.)
I learned when I was 6 or 8 how to surf. I had not touched a surf board since, despite living minutes from the beach for two years. Since I am in such a big surfing town I decided to give it a whirl. I rented the equipment and headed to the nearby beach. Unfortunately, the waves were quite large and the current strong. I tried on several occasions to swim out, but my attempts were futile. Every time I was tossed and turned and shaken about like a ragdoll by a little girl having a temper tantrum. A trudged down the beach lugging my board and sopping, sandy wetsuit. I reached another beach that seemed more reasonable. I suited up and again attempted to swim out to the waves. No success. After asking several experienced surfers, they all suggested to head back to Biarritz (I was in another small town where I rented the equipment). After taking buses and walking a bunch, I arrived at La Plage Cote de Basque. The ocean was filled with little black specks of surfers. The sun was hidden behind a large cloud, yet its glowing rays managed to beam through, showering everything with a golden aura. 'Twas a glorious sight. I marched down to the beach, donned my wetsuit, and ventured into the water.
I didn't do any tricks, let alone stay up for more than a millisecond, however, I am very proud of myself for trying something new, that was physically challenging and in a foreign country, alone, no less. There were definite moments of intense frustration, physical discomfort/pain like when I dropped the board on my little toe while carrying it, and feelings of wanting to give up, but I persisted and I came through it. And I'm that much more ready for whatever adventures tomorrow holds.